The magic of men's hats

By Liz Coggins

Alphabet W When it comes to grooming and style many men over 50 have nearly got it right.
Man in hatMan in hat

The suit, shirt and footwear may be fine, but as for that bit of the anatomy that's always on show - the head and the hair - it's sometimes another matter.

Hair flair for men

Although, one hopes, we've seen the demise of the comb-over (the long strand of hair taken across the head in the hope of disguising baldness), the dark toupee resting on a fringe of greying hair and the Eighties perm, most 50-plus men today don't make the best of what could be their crowning glory.

As we grow older, the growth cycle of our hair changes. More hair follicles rest, so less hair grows and the rate of its growth slows down. As a result, hair gets finer and more sparse and we experience colour loss. When this happens, it's time to stand back, take a long hard look and make some changes.

However much hair you have, or don't have, it needs washing every day - and even if you have never used a conditioner before, now is the time to start. Hair, like our bodies, needs plenty of TLC as we get older.

If you really can't bear the idea of a snow-white thatch then colouring is certainly a good option. This, however, can have its pitfalls, so its best to seek professional help.

Toni Ciacciarelli, colourist at styling agency Michaeljohn, said: "Men shouldn't dye their hair too dark over a large area as it can look false. To make dyed hair look more natural, disperse hair with light and dark shades, giving it more depth and a richer tone."

Some men will notice that their hair starts to recede and strong hair suddenly becomes finer and brittle. At this point, its time to contemplate a new style.

"The best thing for thinning hair is to keep it short and layered," adds Michaeljohn's Clive Leaver. "This helps create volume, making it look thicker than it actually is. If you have never tried using a volumising product, this is another good option."

Many 50-plus men are opting for a fashionable close crop or shaved look, which can look great on the right face shape. But if your face is round, then this is definitely a no-no. Close-cropped hair also maximises any facial imperfections and needs a pair of perfect ears.

Get ahead, get a hat - but which one?

When it comes to headwear, today's over 50s guys would do well to take a few tips from their fathers or grandfathers, whose headgear always matched the occasion. Hats can make you look and feel special, can keep you warm, protect you from the sun, but most of all the right hat for the right occasion, the right stature and the right face shape adds a sartorial elegance to any male.

It's important to know what body and face shapes suit which hat – unless you want to end up looking like a cartoon character rather than a sauve man-about-town.

Taller or large framed men, especially those with round faces, should opt for hats with larger brims. In the summer, a wide-brimmed Panama – think Anthony Andrews in Brideshead Revisited - both looks good and does its job well. In cooler weather an Australian style large-brimmed hat in suede, leather or felt is both functional and smart. For a more sophisticated look, a felt fedora is a good option.

Slightly built or small men should avoid hats with large brims. In summer, lightweight cotton trilbies and small brimmed Panamas are a good choice. For winter, tweed trilbies or even a deer stalker look good. The more discerning follower of fashion may even opt for a jaunty Cossack style which suits every face shape.

When the wind really blows, leave the wool beanies to the ramblers, mountaineers and builders, whatever your stature. These close-fitting hats are ageing and do no favours, emphasising every crease and imperfection in the face. Bandanas have precisely the same effect in summer and are best reserved for professional dancers in the rehearsal room.

One piece of headgear that suits young and old and always looks smart is the flat cap - whether in tweed, worsted or corduroy. A favourite with royals, and celebrities - 007 hunk Daniel Craig was photographed wearing one in London some weeks ago - this is an essential fashion accessory for the winter.

But there's one hat that's not on the best-dressed list and should be avoided at all times - the baseball cap. It looks fine worn for some sporting pursuits, but as far as anything else it has the effect of turning a smartly-dressed male into an ageing Bart Simpson. So if you want to get ahead, get a hat, as the old saying goes - but bin the baseball cap at all costs.

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