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Bordeaux not so superieur?
We have fallen out of love with French wine. Jonathan Goodall explains why
French wines made headlines back in July when they slipped to fifth place in the UK’s wine league table. For the first time the world’s proudest wine-nation found itself behind South Africa, Italy and California with Australia crowing at the top.
The New World barbarians have been hammering at the gates with their new-fangled brands for the last 20 years and now, it seems, the citadel has finally fallen. British wine drinkers succumbed to the bright fruit flavours and simple labelling (by grape variety) of New World wines, while the French clung to their concept of terroir as if it were a life raft bobbing on a rising tide of Aussie Chardonnay.
Terroiristes argue that a wine’s character owes more to the place where it was grown than the grape variety. Consequently, grape varieties have no place on appellation-contrôllée (AOC) wine labels, and if the consumer doesn’t know that Chablis is made from Chardonnay, well, tough.
The AOC rules also stipulate such things as permitted yields and how the wine should be aged. Every base is covered, and innovation smothered. Combine this with occasional instances of mediocre wines hiding behind illustrious AOC labels and it’s hardly a winning combination – certainly when compared with well-made branded wines that are easy to understand, easy to drink and easy to sell.
Ironically, the supposedly inferior vin de pays (country wines) classification allows grape varieties on the label and innovation in the vineyard and winery. Languedoc-Roussillon, traditionally the source of French plonk, has been leading the French wine revolution with its approachable vins de pays d’Oc.
But now things could change. Having watched the New World share of global wine sales rise from about three per cent in 1990 to 30 per cent in 2008, the EU’s new wine regulations have been created to make European wines more competitive. As of August 1 this year, all European wines are allowed to mention grape variety and vintage on the label. In France this might prove particularly beneficial to vins de tables, the lowliest wines, where providing this information has been prohibited in the past. They are henceforth to be known as vins de France – thus "Vin Rouge, Vin de Table" has been transformed, for example, into the more appealing "Merlot 2009, Vin de France". Also, under the new regime producers have the same sort of winemaking freedom as their New World competitors.
The shackles are off; will the French wise up to dumbing down?
Three to try
Blason de Bourgogne Saint-Veran Chardonnay 2006 - an elegant Burgundy Golden Chardonnay with a rich, buttery nose, peach, apricot and brioche on the palate, building to a fresh lemony finish (13% alcohol). Available from Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Waitrose.
La Difference Grenache Noir 2008 - fruit-packed vin de pays from the sunny south Ripe raspberry assails the nose; plum and blackcurrant bounce on the palate with enough acidity to avoid a hint of jam (14.5%). Available from Morrisons.
J.P. Chenet Vin de Pays d’Oc Shiraz 2007 With its wonky bottle, J.P. Chenet is the UK’s best-selling French wine brand. The Shiraz has a smoky nose with a ripe, spicy palate and hints of chocolate (13%). Available from Tesco.
Also look out for Laurent Miquel, Paul Mas and La Grille.
The article was first published in the November 2009 edition of Saga Magazine. Product availability was correct at the time of going to press. Please check with individual suppliers' websites for up-to-date information
Reader comments
For good quality French wine, go for AOC wine direct from a small producer rather than mass produced wines from a large negocient. Every wine making country has fantastic examples of good quality wine - you just need to know how to interpret the message on the bottle!
Posted by: Helen | 09/03/2010 11:00:07
what has happened to the south american wines from chile which were concidered better than the french or italyan
Posted by: roy sears | 04/02/2010 19:23:39
French wines are living off reputations and for the 'man-in-the-street' their wines are over-priced and over-rated. Unless you pay 310 a bottle its hardly worth drinking and for that you can get fantastic Spanish Rioja and New World wines. Of course, if you like thin wines with little taste you can stick to French.
Posted by: Ian Smith | 31/01/2010 14:32:52
Pound for pound, French wines seem too thin and austere. For fruitier and mor full bodied wines, reds in particular, you have only to look across the border to Spain.
Posted by: Alan | 30/01/2010 13:21:49
I have always preferred French wine: I find them 'softer' than New World wines. However, I understand the difference between wine varieties better than by region, therefore I choose a named variety of wine.
Posted by: Hazel Cooper | 30/01/2010 11:18:24
A bit of honesty here, please: the French are still the wine (and culinary) masters of the world. Any suggestions to the contrary is just wishful thinking.
Posted by: Svenson67 | 29/01/2010 16:35:06
Personally I prefer the complexity, subtlety and refinement of French wines. Another thing worth considering is that they are coming from a neighbouring country, so fewer miles to travel in these eco-conscious times.
Posted by: Genevieve | 29/01/2010 13:45:13
