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The science of good cuisine

cooking asparagus

Chemistry might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of good cooking, but according to biochemist and food writer Shirley Corriher, that’s exactly what it boils down to, writes Siski Green

"Cooking is chemistry," she says. "It’s essentially chemical reactions." To prove her point, she has revealed the reasons why cooks stick rigidly to certain rules.

If you’ve ever made the mistake of cooking asparagus in anything but scorching hot water for a short amount of time, you’ll know the result is an unappetizing grey mush.

The reason behind this is that longer, slower cooking causes the plant’s cells to shrink, releasing an acid and draining the colour. Boiling water, however, forces the cells to explode, resulting in a brighter green.

Similarly, red cabbage can also cause problems, changing colour as you cook. This, says Corriher, is because heat changes the pH of the cabbage from acid to alkaline – it’s this that turns your cabbage a violent shade of blue. How to fix it? Add some vinegar.

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