SAGA — Doing things properly

If you drive a car that’s over three years old, then once a year, by law, you’ll have to put it in for an MOT test. Which, more often than not, ends up making a nasty dent in your bank account. But there are a few simple ways to save yourself some money. You don’t have to be a mechanic and all it takes is a little bit of time. You may spot something that you could easily fix, without having to pay for a re-test.

If you’re an older driver, perhaps over 50 and feel you’re not quite up to the job alone, it may be a good idea to get someone else to help you. In fact, it’s probably best for two people to carry out the checks anyway. For instance, the lights and indicators – one person to operate them and another to check if they work.

So, what do you need to look out for?

Well, just follow this step-by-step guide and you could prevent your car from failing its MOT. And remember, if you’re driving a car without a valid MOT (unless driving to and from the test centre), you’re not covered by your car insurance as well as breaking the law.

NOTE: Remember to switch off your engine before looking under the bonnet.

Let’s start off by checking the lighting and electrical system. In many cases, all you need do, to rectify a fault, is simply change a bulb.

• Headlights – check that low and high beam work
• Sidelights
• Brake lights
• Side repeat lights
• Left and right, front and rear indicators
• Number plate light
• Rear number plate light
• Driver’s side fog light
• Hazard and emergency lights

Now, let’s move on to the interior of your car. Check the following:

• Seatbelts must be free from tears or slices and all buckles and fastenings should work freely
• Seat runners and mountings should be rust-free, structurally sound and in good working order
• All interior mirrors should be free from cracks and fitted correctly (this applies to external mirrors, too)

On to the outside of you car.

Let’s start with doors, locks and handles

• All doors should shut correctly, including the boot or tailgate
• Doors should also shut flush with the bodywork, be completely secure and free from rattles

External bodywork and chassis checks

• Check the sills for rust and corrosion
• Check that any part of the chassis that is integral to your car’s structure is sound
• Also check that the bumpers are free from cracks or protruding edges

Engine bay and engine component checks

• All fuel, brake and power steering and lines should be free from rust or leaking fluid

Exhaust system, including CAT if required

• All parts of the exhaust system, including the downpipe, manifold and rear silencer must be sealed
• There must be no rattles
• Maximum emission level is 14 – anything below this is also acceptable

Suspension

• All shock absorbers, mountings bushes and boots must be free from corrosion
• Dampers must be leak-free

Steering

• Your car’s steering should be smooth, including flow in the steering rack
• There should be no play in the steering rack
• All bolts steering boots and joints in the rack must be in working order with no excessive play

Footbrake and handbrake

• Footbrake and handbrake lines must be leak-free, in working order and not feel ‘spongy’
• Brake pipes should be in good working order, without leaks or any sign of perishing
• Cables to the handbrake must be fitted correctly without any overhanging cable
• You car should not pull to the left or right when the brakes are applied

Tyres

• Your tyres must have the minimum depth of tread, 1.6mm, two thirds of the way across
• No splits, bulges or illegal repairs, such as tyre wall repairs
• The above applies to you spare tyre, too

Windscreen and windscreen wipers

• The windscreen should be free from cracks (stone chips are acceptable, though)
• All wipers and washers should be fitted correctly and be in good working order

So there you have a list of basic checks to make sure your car stands a better chance of passing its MOT. And potentially, a good way of saving money too.