Four classic French butters

Alphabet S Since 1932, Ginette Mathiot's I Know How To Cook (Je sais cuisiner), has been the cookery bible for three generations of French families. Now translated into English for the first time, non-French cooks can benefit from clear instructions that reveal how simple it is to prepare good French food. Extracted here are four classic French butters to accompany meat, fish, vegetables and more

Maître d'Hôtel butterMaître d'Hôtel butter
Maître d'Hôtel Butter

Maître d'Hôtel

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Makes: 90g (3¼ oz)

  • 80g (2¾ oz) butter, softened
  • 1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • Salt and pepper

Beat the butter with the parsley and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Put the mixture in the centre of a small sheet of greaseproof paper or foil and use this to roll the mixture into a log. Chill until required. When ready to serve, unwrap the butter, cut it across into coin shapes and place one on top of each serving. The butter will melt immediately to provide a rich sauce and goes particularly well with grilled meats such as steaks.

Ravigote Butter

Beurre Ravigote

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Makes: 90g (3¼ oz)

  • 1 large handful of mixed herbs, such as chervil, chives, tarragon and watercress
  • 80g (2¾ oz) butter, softened
  • Salt and pepper

Bring a pan of water to the boil and put the herbs into the boiling water for about 3 minutes. Drain well and chop the herbs finely. Knead them well into the butter, then pass the butter through a sieve to remove the solids. Put the butter in the centre of a small sheet of greaseproof paper or foil and use this to roll the butter into a log. Chill until required. When ready to serve, unwrap the butter, cut it across into coin shapes and place one on top of each serving. Ravigote butter goes well with fish dishes.

Black Butter

Beurre Noir

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Makes: 75 ml (3 fl oz)

  • 60g (2 oz) butter
  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Method

Melt the butter carefully in a frying pan. stirring continuously, and cook until the milk solids turn brown, but not black. If they turn black the butter should be discarded. Pour the butter into a dish. Remove the pan from the heat, add the vinegar and stir for a moment, then pour it over the butter and mix well. Serve with grilled or fried fish, as well as egg and vegetable dishes.

Beurre Blanc

Beurre Blanc

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Makes: 500 ml (18 fl oz)

  • 100g (3½ oz) shallots, chopped
  • 20g (¾ oz) tarragon
  • 100 ml (3½ fl oz) white wine
  • 50 ml (2 fl oz) double cream
  • 250g (9 oz) butter, slightly softened
  • Salt and pepper

Method

In a small dry pan, gently heat the shallots with a few tarragon leaves for a few minutes. Stir in the wine and all but a little of the vinegar. Simmer over a low heat for about 10 minutes to reduce. Add the cream and bring to the boil. Add the butter in small pieces, beating vigorously with a whisk. Process in a blender and add the remaining vinegar to make the sauce smoother. Season with salt and pepper. A little chopped tarragon may be added at the last moment.I Know How to Cook

Extracted from: I Know How To Cook by Ginette Mathiot. Published by Phaidon, RRP £24.95. Buy this book at a discount from Saga Books.

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