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Weekend in Berlin: The 20th Anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall
From public objets d'art and a grand party to the toppling of a two-kilometre-long chain of giant dominoes, Berlin pulled out all the stops for its Festival of Freedom, celebrating the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Nicola Iseard has the lowdown on the magnificent events, and takes her pick of the city's top attractions you don't want to miss whenever you visit the German capital
The fall of the Berlin Wall was arguably the most moving historic moment of the 20th century. It happened on November 9, 1989, and as you will have seen, Berlin went to town to mark the 20th anniversary of that momentous occasion.
The three-day celebrations kicked off on November 7 - and the line-up of events was imaginative and inspiring. As well as an open-air exhibition on Alexanderplatz, focusing on the events of 1989/90 that lead to the wall's eventual demise, many of the city's government buildings, foreign embassies and new city centres became public objets d'art through light installations, oversized façade art and exhibitions, all under the banner 'Sites of the New Berlin: 20 years of Change' - to highlight developments that have transformed Berlin into one of the world's most modern and cultured cities. Museums such as the House at Checkpoint Charlie, the Stasi Museum, the Allied Museum and the GDR Museum all feature special exhibitions focusing on the era of the Berlin Wall, too.
The real show-stopper however was on the 9th, when the event culminated in a grand public party, the Festival of Freedom, at the iconic Brandenburg Gate. After an open-air concert at Pariser Platz by the Staatskapelle Berlin orchestra, the fall of the Berlin Wall was symbolised in spectacular fashion by the toppling of a two-kilometre-long chain of giant dominoes, along the former wall path.
Once the crowds have departed, you can experience the path of the Berlin Wall yourself, by following the self-guided walk along the route, which is marked by information columns. You can even take a guided or self-guided bicycle tour of the path (see fattirebiketoursberlin.com).
If after a few days you are feeling a bit walled-out, there are plenty of other sights well worth a visit. If you fancy some exploring, head to the Nikolaiviertel district - with its narrow winding streets, little souvenir shops and Old Berlin restaurants it is one of the most charming parts of the city. It is also home to Berlin's oldest sacred building, the Nikolaikirche (Church of St Nicholas), which dates from around 1300 and has striking red-brick twin towers. For a mid-morning coffee and spot of people-watching head for Savignyplatz, a cobblestone square in the heart of Charlottenburg, dotted with restaurants and street cafés that ooze old-world charm.
As for sightseeing, a trip to Berlin isn't complete without visiting the Zitadelle Spandau (Spandau Citadel), which is one of the most well-preserved Renaissance forts in Europe. The star-shaped moated fortress - the oldest parts of which date from the 13th and 15th centuries - houses two museums and often hosts art exhibitions too. Don't leave without climbing the 145 steps of the Julius Tower - the sweeping views from the top over the west of Berlin are well worth the leg-burn.
Another must-see is the Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). Designed as a summer residence for Sophie Charlotte, wife of Elector Friedrich III, you could easily while away an entire day here: visit the exquisite mirrored gallery, where valuable porcelain items from China and Japan are on display, and marvel at the luxurious splendour of the Schlosskapelle (palace chapel), which recalls the once magnificent interior design of the palace, before it was destroyed in World War II. If you are blessed with sunshine, take a stroll through the lovely Baroque and English-style gardens - one of the palace's main draws. Wander past the Belvedere, a three-storey structure built in 1788 as a teahouse, now containing a collection of Berlin porcelain, and pause at the Mausoleum which contains the tombs of Friedrich Wilhelm III, and his wife Queen Luis, among others. Look out for temporary exhibitions in the Orangery, too.
From the Wall to the Zitadelle Spandau to the Schloss Charlottenburg - Berlin is a city of pasts, all of which call out to be explored. All you need to do is get there.
* Nicola Iseard is a travel writer for The Observer. For a calendar of events see www.mauerfall09.de
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