Travel and leisure
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48 hours in Lille
Lille is one of France's most charming and most accessible cities. Nicola Iseard gives you the inside track on how best to spend your weekend
Morning stroll...
Rise early, before the city wakes, and head to the Grand' Place, the heart of Lille. Wander past the 17th century La Vieille Bourse (the old stock exchange), the theatre, beautiful Flemish facades and the pretty fountain, which stands in the centre, overlooked by a statue of Déesse, the symbol of the Lille. Next, make your way to the historic centre, Vieux Lille, with its warren of cobbled streets and looming gables. Take time to explore its quaint shops, selling everything from antiques to sumptuous linens.
Café for refreshment...
If you're a fan of the Paul bakery chain, you can see - and taste - where it all began, by stopping by the old corner-site bakery, opposite La Vielle Bourse, for a mid-morning coffee and pastry. The bakery remains something special, with solid wooden tables lined up against blue-and-white tiled walls and exposed wooden beams. Order a cappuccino and fresh croissant with homemade jam. Delicious.
Spot of culture...
No trip to Lille is complete without a visit to the Palais des Beaux-Arts, an imposing 19th-century building that houses one of the best art collections outside of Paris. Admire the Antiquities department, 19th-century French sculptures and the Prints and Drawings Room, where greats include Rubens, Picasso and Monet. The Musée de l'Hospice Comtesse, a former 13th century hospital/convent is worth a visit too, housing an eclectic collection of carved furniture and ancient musical instruments.
Afternoon excursion...
While away the afternoon with a ride on the 1906 vintage tram, which runs every 15 minutes along the canal bank on the outskirts of Lille, between Wambrechies and Marquette. Known as "Mongy" trams after Alfred Mongy who built them, they used to provide public transport through the streets of Lille. Now refurbished, you can sit on the authentic wooden benches and take in the scenic views for just 3 euros return.
Supper time...
Combining fabulous food with a refreshing 'be my guest' approach, Clemont Marot is a real gem. The main dining room has a rather post-war traditional feel to it, with commemorative plates stacked high and framed photographs. Expect to find dishes such as sardines marinated in the house champagne vinegar, and plenty of traditional puddings - and, it's worth noting that the recipes on the menu are not set in stone. Fancy a little something extra with your sardines? No problem.
Saga Magazine
Reader comments
Just been to Lille Christmas Market. Had a look around the old town, the Grand Place, etc. The buildings are great and the Christmas lights show them up wonderfully. Lovely City, people so very friendly. Had booked restaurant for dinner and although in a rougher looking area, it was wonderful and highly recommended - La Tete de L'Art. will certainly go back to have a real look around this city.
Posted by: Kathy Turnbull | 30/11/2009 21:41:55
Lille really is a lovely city. The skyline in the old Flemish-style quarters is made up of fantastical confections of steep roofs pierced with little shuttered windows and dotted with dazzling little details, while other quarters are somewhat reminiscent of Paris. I went before Christmas when Lille plays host to a Christmas market and the atmosphere was quite magical.
Posted by: indigo rose | 28/05/2008 13:51:44
