Travel and leisure
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Spanish steps - walking holidays in Spain
Sheila Merriman laced up her walking boots and stamped out her doubts when she joined an energetic walking break in Spain
Would a hill walking holiday in Spain be a step too far? After all, I was used to walking in Norfolk where molehills are more common than mountains. But I needn't have worried. The excellent walk leaders in Spain, Morris and Gillian, combined warm hospitality with calm professionalism.
The week, based in Denia in February, was excellent. Luckily, we arrived a few days after vicious storms had blown themselves out. We had blue skies and sunshine but could clearly see the devastation, including the loss of a crucial footbridge over a now quiet, but still deep, river.
However, our guides had prepared thoroughly and had found an alternative route so that we could still enjoy a circular walk.
Our very first walk was a gentle six miles or so, mainly along the promenade by the murmurous Mediterranean, then up a hill to admire the view.
As we got our breath back Morris admitted this had been a chance to assess our walking speed.
Luckily we all met his standard. We celebrated by walking back to the hotel for a cup of tea. That introductory walk served another purpose. Because all of it was along wide paths and tracks, members of the group could get to know each other. Everyone was very friendly and I was delighted to find I wasn't the only person on my own. It was a deliciously eclectic group, but you could tell by the boots and backpacks all were regular walkers.
The days settled into a pattern of breakfasting while assembling our own packed lunches. Then after about an hour in a comfortable coach, hairpinning up the hills to deliver us to our starting point. Each day, as we tramped along, ascending and descending, we had views of different landscapes. For me, the most memorable was walking high above a valley frothing with almond blossom. The sun’s heat lifted the fragrance to the heavens, accompanied by a celestial choir of birds.
Morris was superb at not only pointing out interesting landmarks and plants but also responding to constant questions of 'what's this plant?' and 'what's that bird?'. Although on the latter point, he took the occasional flight of fancy. A large bird gliding the thermals rapidly progressed from 'maybe a buzzard' to, by lunchtime, 'definitely a golden eagle', though this identification was met by hoots of derision.
From this single sighting grew the fictitious rhyme:
Morris and Gill went up the hill
leading the Saga walkers.
Lunch was unpacked
when the eagle attacked.
But it fled from the raucous caucus.
The coach collected us at the end of each walk, transporting us to the delights of our hotel, usually for a soak in a hot bath before dinner. As the holiday was all inclusive we could comfortably agree to meet in the bar and offer to get a round of drinks. There were so many alcoholic beverages I'd never tried, I thought I'd attempt an alphabet. A was apple liqueur, B for Baileys, C was Cava…and that was as far as I got. It was so delicious I didn't bother to tackle the remaining 23 letters! Local wine was served with the excellent buffet-style meals, which for meat and fish eaters were a veritable cornucopia.
We were given one rest day. Not that many actually rested! We all crammed our tourist sights into one day. I thoroughly enjoyed the Toy Museum in Denia. It was fascinating to see how a failing box factory had changed to toy making.
And even a rest day needed to include a climb, so I scaled the heights of the citadel to tour the archaeology museum. Others climbed the nearest mountain, took the train to Alicante, or simply lazed by the pool. Definitely a holiday that satisfied diverse tastes.
For details of Saga's holidays to Spain call free on 0800 414 411 quoting THI03 or visit saga.co.uk/travel-shop. Details correct at time of publication, November 18, 2009.
