Travel and leisure
Interests
Cairo, Mother of the World
No trip to Egypt would be complete without visiting the bustling capital, Cairo - a roaring metropolis where 18 million people live alongside some of the world's most recognisable landmarks, as Ben Barton discovered
“He who have not seen Cairo hath not seen the world.” So read my battered copy of Arabian Nights – an odd choice for in-flight reading you might think, but during my stay in Africa’s largest city I was intending to take in as much history as I could manage in a week, and this seemed as good a place as any to start.
I had in mind a city of Bedouin-types who retired at sunset and rose at dawn to tend their flocks, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Modern Cairo seems more like a cousin of London or New York, with a large salting of Islamic influences. Towering skyscrapers sat next-door to crumbling apartment blocks, ramshackle mosques, marble shopping malls and tin-roofed stables. There was a lot to take in.
Heading out from this urban bustle, I went in search of Giza. After a humid half-hour-drive the worn tips slid gently into view, standing proud amid a sprawling desert city. The ‘Great Pyramid’ of Khufu is the largest on the plateau, and is spectacular in scale: its area can apparently accommodate St Peter’s in Rome, the cathedrals of Florence and Milan, and Westminster and St Paul’s in London combined. Yes, it’s that big.
Entering the pyramid required a ticket, and the queue was frustratingly long. But inside was like the eye of a storm – all the touristy bustle faded away, and the small passageways sprawled ahead as far as the eye could see. It was almost ethereal. I was taken up an impossibly steep slope to the magnificent Grand Gallery, where I was finally able to stand up amid its expansive surroundings.
Feeling like Indiana Jones (without the hat), I walked on to the King’s Chamber which, to my disappointment, was empty. Khufu’s body, along with his earthly possessions, were looted long before the archaeologists arrived. If you want to explore inside the Great Pyramid for yourself, anticipate a sweaty and claustrophobic experience, although it is without doubt a highly rewarding one.
After a traditional lunch of mezze, I decided it was time to meet the Sphinx, which required another ticket (although those on escorted tours seemed to breeze through – I would recommend joining one to save hassle). To get the best views you must ascend a large alabaster slope, worn smooth by the millions of tourists who have come from far and wide to see the crumbling face.
The crowds were immense, but it was fascinating to get so close with this legendary figure. In reality it is not a Sphinx at all, that being part of Greek myth – a half lion, half enchantress and riddler.
The masculine figure on Giza is called ‘Abu I-Hol’ in Arabic, which translates as ‘Father of Terror’ and represents a pharaoh, most likely Khafre who reigned from 2589 to 2566BC and who was entombed in the central pyramid on the plateau. It’s a common misconception, but the name Sphinx has undoubtedly stuck.
My day in Giza concluded with the famed Sound and Light Show, held on a terrace directly in front of the Sphinx – a seating area which affords stunning views of the three Pyramids, the Queen’s Pyramids and the plateau.
As twilight approached, the narrative echoed from nearby speakers, relating 40 centuries of recorded Egyptian history. I was taken back to the great biblical movies such as The Ten Commandments and The Robe, as the orchestra flared up with a booming score complete with crashing cymbals, and an overly-English narrator who relayed the legends of tragedy, triumph and tenacity.
As the hour-long show progressed, the sun slowly set, staining the horizon a deep red – a truly spectacular sight. If you intend to visit Cairo, then a trip to the Pyramids and to this show is absolutely essential.