Val Bourne I find the simplest of all are autumn-fruiting raspberries. They crop heavily from August until mid-October, when soft fruit is often scarce, and the good-sized berries are full of flavour as well as being highly nutritious. Raspberries contain lots of Vitamin C plus other antioxidants, flavonoids and potassium. They can be eaten raw, they make jam in less than five minutes (if the fruit is very fresh) and they freeze tolerably well too.
All raspberries prefer well-drained soil, a sheltered site and rainfall when they crop. In the drier south-east corner Autumn varieties will probably do better for you than summer ones if you are prepared to water in dry August weather. Pruning is also easy. Just cut the canes right down to the ground every spring because the fruit is produced on new wood. Once the canes are cut, dig lightly through the soil to disturb any raspberry beetle larvae. Remove any weeds and then give them an annual feed with a compound fertiliser like Nitrate of Potash or Growmore. Or mulch with well-rotted manure.
Top varieties include ‘Autumn Bliss’ and a French one called ‘Galante’.
Go to a specialist
When buying all fruit it is much better to go to a specialist fruit nursery (like Ken Muir - www.kenmuir.co.uk) as their stock is certified as virus-free every year. They will also have a greater range of modern varieties and they will be able to give you excellent advice. Don’t just settle for a plastic-wrapped bundle of canes at the local garden centre. They will often disappoint.
Position
Choose a warm, sheltered position to encourage more flower. This also ensures that lots of pollinators visit the crop. Prepare the soil well by digging it deeply and then allow it to settle. If you are on damp, heavy ground make a raised bed by mounding the earth up along the row before planting.
Planting
Plant canes in rows that are 1.8 m or 6 ft apart, spacing each individual cane 38 cm or 15 inches apart. Double rows are often best. Spread the roots of the new canes out and plant them 3 - 4 inches deep. Then cut them back to 30 cm or 12 inches to prevent wind rock - thus allowing the cane to root well. If space is limited just plant a group of canes in a circle.
Supports
Once the canes develop fruit they can become top heavy and flop so you will need to support the canes. The traditional method is to use sturdy upright supports at the ends of the rows and spread wire between them. This is a tricky process and over the months the wire always becomes slack.
Make it easy
There are two good products that will help make the job easier. One is Gripple and this system uses thick plastic-coated wires threaded through a tightening device that allows you to tension the wires properly. (www.gripple.com) Haxnicks (www.haxnicks.co.uk) also sell bendy soft tie in various thicknesses. This allows you to bend flexible ties round each cane without fear of stem damage. It comes in green and brown. Both make the job infinitely easier and quicker.
Cane control
Raspberries wander away from the row and they need firm control. Chop out any unwanted canes in early spring just as they appear.
Other excellent varieties
‘Glen Moy’ - a heavy cropper which resists aphid attack and is therefore less likely to suffer from viruses. Not for wet soil though.
‘Malling Jewel’ - tolerant to virus - but a moderate cropper
‘Glen Ample’ - vigorous and disease resistant with bright-red fruits
‘Malling Admiral’ - strong, disease-resistant and heavy cropping raspberry with excellent flavour.