If you’re after a red that’s perfect for a summer barbecue, set your sights on Spain, says our wine expert.
During the 1880s, Irish soldier and journalist John Augustus O’Shea visited a sherry bodega near Cadiz. He noted that it was owned by none other than the Duke of Wellington. However, when it came to the wine, he was less impressed.
Apparently, it was a "hell-glass of new spirit, violent assault liquefied", and the sort of thing "over which the idiot of a connoisseur cunningly smacks his lips and rolls his moist eyes". But O’Shea said, "if he were only told how much of it was real and how much artificial".
Wine in those days could be more of a witch’s brew.
And this one was "charged with sulphuric acid gas… sweetened with cane-sugar… coloured with plastered must… fortified with brandy" and, worst of all, flavoured with "garnacha dulce". The grape Garnacha – or Grenache, as the French call it – was not held in high regard in the 1880s. It was a beefy, alcoholic, filler grape. A workhorse.
Oh, how the times change. Today Garnacha has its own international "day" (19 September) and has become the people’s Pinot Noir. It makes affordable, juicy, mid-weight reds perfect for barbecues.
Recently, I was in a winery in Cariñena in northern Spain and spotted a bottle of Waitrose Blueprint Old Vine Garnacha (13.5%, £7.25) about to be sent to the UK. They opened one and what a wine! Red berries, bright cherry, a touch of spiciness, all wrapped in a juicy texture. Pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes and it’s even better.
It’s great value too. And that’s a big reason to like Garnacha. Co-op Spanish Garnacha (14%, £7.65) comes from Campo de Borja – just along the road from Cariñena. It’s great for barbecues, midweek suppers, and good friends, with red berry fruit, smooth texture, a spicy finish, and exotic scented aromas.
Garnacha isn’t a "posh" grape, so is great value even if you spend more. La Novena Garnacha 2023 (14.5%, £10.99, vintagebysaga.co.uk) is a steal. It’s meticulously made, picking out individual plots of vineyards, and weaving them into a lightly spiced whole.
In a logical world, Garnacha Querencia Corache 2023 (14.3%) would be £20. As it is you can buy it for £12 from Tesco and enjoy its floral, fragrant aromas, and supple, currant and damson palate.
While in Tesco, pick up Care Garnacha Nativa 2022 (14.5%, £12). It’s made from ancient vines that give depth and character. Alongside black cherry and raspberry fruit, you’ll also find a bittersweet hint of mocha.
And here’s the ultimate insider tip with Garnacha, or Garnatxa as they call it in Catalonia. There’s a white version, Garnatxa Blanca, which makes some of the most stylish, interesting, delicious wines today.
Herència Altés Benufet Garnacha Blanca 2023 (13.5%, £17, waitrosecellar.com) has white stone fruit flavours, a zingy, zippy freshness, and a lingering, nut-scented finish. It’s a grown-up wine.
Even John Augustus O’Shea would be impressed.
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