Wines from Roman regions: drink like an emperor with our top choices

Nunc est bibendum (‘Now is the time for drinking’), wrote the Roman poet Horace. Bibendum today is a restaurant, a wine merchants, and the real name of the Michelin Man (a useful pub quiz fact for you). It’s also an instruction.

Think of that the next time Monty Python asks, “What have the Romans ever done for us?”

The legacy of the Romans is a tour of modern wine regions. Some are familiar, some hidden gems.

All of them are living proof that Romans knew their wine.

5 best Roman wines

1. Cortijo Los Aguilares Tinto, Ronda 2023

RRP: £16.30, Tanners Wines

My friend Juan makes wine in Ronda, a wine region high above the holiday beaches of Malaga, and he’s following a tradition dating back 2,000 years. Ronda was founded as Acinipo by retired Roman legionaries after fighting for Julius Caesar at the Battle of Munda in 45BC.

Local coins were once decorated with grape bunches. Today, their descendants make wines such as Cortijo Los Aguilares Tinto, Ronda 2023 (14%), a ripe, dark-berry-scented wine with a fresh, bright tang. Its hearty character reflects the high, rugged mountain vineyards.

2. The Roman Road Chardonnay

RRP: £29, Simpsons Wine

When the Romans invaded Britain nearly 90 years later, in AD43, they brought their own drinks. On one of the first Roman roads, in the North Downs, Simpson’s Estate produces The Roman Road Chardonnay (13%).

If you liked Chablis 20 years ago, you’ll love this. There’s a core of fine lemon fruit with elegant, mineral finesse. Roman winemaking in England spread from here to large vineyards in Norfolk.

What we’re seeing in England today is a revival, not experimental novelty.

3. Grey Slate Dr L Riesling Private Reserve

RRP: £9.99, Waitrose

But it was the Emperor Probus who inspired and encouraged winemaking across half of Europe.

“He allowed all Gauls, Spaniards and Britons to own vines and make wine,” declared the great Roman book Historia Augusta, which overturned a ban that had been in place for more than a century.

Today, Probus is considered the ‘father’ of German winemaking, especially in regions such as the Mosel. Grey Slate Dr L Riesling Private Reserve (10.5%) is light, fragrant, off-dry and citrus; a delicate consequence of a rampaging invasion.

4. Doja Vinarija Breg Prokupac

RRP: £24.80, Vivino

In Serbia, Probus made his troops plant vines when they weren’t fighting. Today, we have fine wines such as Doja Vinarija Breg Prokupac (14.5%) that are dense, dark, and rich and will live for many years. Unlike Probus.

He was eventually murdered by his soldiers who resented planting the vineyards.

5. Masso Antico Primitivo 2021

RRP: £9.50, Asda

And if you want to drink Roman without murdering your bank account, try Masso Antico Primitivo 2021 (14%). Spicy with brambly fruit and warming pepper, Primitivo is a grape the Romans found in Croatia, and brought home.

I recommend you do as the Romans do.