Gutters have a vital purpose and are there for a very good reason. If they weren’t there, water would run off your roof and drop straight to the base of the walls. It would then seep into the building foundations as well as cause damp in the walls and other damage.
There are two main reasons guttering stops being effective – when it gets blocked by leaves and moss or it gets damaged in some way. So what can damage guttering?
If you notice any of these things going on, it could be a sure sign that your guttering could do with some attention:
Hanging gardens – it can be uplifting to see a determined plant sprouting somewhere unusual. If it’s someone else’s gutter, that’s fine. But if it’s yours, that’s a warning sign there’s enough silt up there for something to take root and block the flow.
Bubble trouble – damp caused by blocked or broken guttering takes time to build up. There might be things happening to wall and floor surfaces which don’t immediately feel like there’s moisture there. Painted interior and external walls can start ‘blooming’ and bubbling if there is an issue below the surface.
Water in the wrong place – you might need to stare at it a bit, but look at the downpipes on a rainy day. If there’s water running down the outside of the pipe, then it’s overflowing further up.
Animal life – drains are often near doors, so if you’re welcomed by a slug or two on the doormat every morning, take it as a sign to check the drainpipe. You’d imagine slugs are attracted to damp, but woodlice? If you see more than the odd one or two in the same place, they’re enjoying a patch of damp nearby. And if it’s near a bit of guttering, that could be the cause.
Bungalows and ground floor extensions are relatively easy to tackle. A bucket, gardening trowel and waterproof gloves are all the additional equipment you’ll need other than a ladder. But whether you’re going up one rung or ten, you need to take care.
Got a long run of guttering you can’t get your ladder underneath, such as above a conservatory? Attach a brush securely to an extension pole or length of batten so you can drop it into the gutter and drag it toward you. You only need the pole to reach halfway if you can get the ladder to the other side too.
Unless you’re a steeplejack or used to working at height, your best bet is to get the professionals in for first-floor gutters or higher. Your window cleaner might offer a gutter service too or seek a cleaning specialist or roofer. They’ll have the right kit to do it with a power hose or vacuum.
Ask them to take a before and after pic of each section, so you know how bad it was and how much better it looks now. It will help you gauge how often you need to get them cleaned too.
You’ve no doubt seen things you can add to gutters to keep them clear, such as long cylindrical brushes, perforated covers or corner cages. All these things will need clearing and maintaining themselves, so it would depend on how bad your gutters generally get and what’s causing them to block.
If it’s the odd clump of moss, guards will stop it falling in and damming the gutter. But if it’s a steady downfall of leaves, these will sit on the guards and need sweeping off throughout autumn.
Looking after your gutters along with other essential household maintenance is common sense to keep your home in good order. Look after it, and it will look after you. But if something happens that means you need to claim on your home insurance, remember you’re not covered for damage caused by wear and tear.
This is why the claims for storm damage have such strict criteria – a well-maintained gutter and roof can withstand quite a battering, so if there’s damage below a set level of wind, rain or snow, it’s wear and tear that’s caused the damage. And your claim will not be covered.
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