The best Hungarian wines - and why you should try them
Wine-producing families go back centuries in Hungary and deserve to have a bigger fan base, argues our expert.
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Wine-producing families go back centuries in Hungary and deserve to have a bigger fan base, argues our expert.
Saga Magazine's wine expert on the best Hungarian wines to try and why this European country is worth a visit.
12.5% RRP £14.49
Modern wine rules number 42: if in doubt in a restaurant, choose the Hungarian dry Furmint. There are two reasons for this. Number one, it tastes delicious. Number two, it makes you look like an expert.
The Hungarian Furmint grape is a half-sibling of Chardonnay, and a half-sibling of Riesling. It has the rounded structure of Chardonnay, and the food-matching perfume of Riesling, making it the most versatile white grape on a restaurant list.
Which gives us the second reason for ordering it. Who on earth goes to a restaurant and orders the Hungarian white? Well, you do, actually. Because you ‘know about wine’. Hungary only exports its best wines, so they’re always good.
For a restaurant-style dry Furmint, then this is the one for you, it’s a fresh, dry wine with honeysuckle perfume, pear fruit and tingling spice with a hint of the exotic.
13%, RRP £13.99
This is a wine to confound Chablis and Sancerre fans. This estate is one of the region’s greatest producers. If you’re new to sampling these wines, Royal Tokaji is where to look for the gold standard. It was co-founded by wine writer Hugh Johnson and is one of the most admired wineries in Hungary.
13.5%, RRP £10.99
As befits an ancient land, Hungary’s wine producers go back centuries. This wine comes from the Kékessy family, whose wine-making history dates back to the 17th century. If you’ve never tasted a quince, try this. It captures the essence of it, blending ripe fruit with a citrus character and Furmint’s distinctive spice. Utterly delicious.
12% RRP £9.95
Furmint comes in every style from exotic, tropical and oaky, to bright, steely and fresh. I’m a fan of fresh and love wines like this one. It’s got exotic pineapple wrapped in a citrussy zing.
13.5%, RRP £8.99
For a fabulous Hungarian red, go back in time with Bull’s Blood. During the siege of Eger in 1552, Hungarian warriors drank so much before battle their beards were stained with the stuff. The attacking Ottomans thought they’d been drinking bull’s blood for strength, and retreated.
This wine is full of juicy black fruits and pepper but wrapped in a mid-weight wine that goes with most things red and grilled. It’s like a richer version of Pinot Noir.
13% RRP £16.20
But my absolute favourite Hungarian white? That’s this amusingly named Kolonics Juhfark – pronounced ‘you-fark’ – from the volcanic village of Somlo. Buy this if you want to wow a wine fan: it’s steely, tingly and unforgettable, with layers of exotic citrus fruit.
It’s said that if a newly married couple drinks it on their wedding night they’ll have a son. Well, I’ve tested it and I have three boys and three girls. I think it might be a bit of a myth.
Holidays to Hungary are all about discovering rich culture and traditions, from its grand cities to its sleepy rural villages. River cruising is a great way to explore – the mighty Danube divides Buda and Pest as it flows through the capital towards the Black Sea.
The food and wine here is a joy to discover, from sour cherry soup to deliciously fluffy plum dumplings and all-out comfort food, the intensely savoury goulash. You’ll find ‘red gold’ sprinkled liberally, too – Hungary is one of the world’s biggest producers of paprika.
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