From avoiding queues at the Colosseum to finding Rome's best coffee, novelist Matson Taylor reveals the places locals love, and tourists often miss.
After university, having no real clue of what I was going to do with the rest of my life, I moved to Rome and lived there for five very happy years.
I arrived a typical 1990s British student – grungy and unkempt – but after just a few days, I realised that to really fit in, I had to up my game style-wise.
So, I equipped myself with a collection of sharp suits and stylish shirts that any Italian mamma would be proud of.
More than 30 years later I still love the city so much that it inspired my latest novel, Roman Mornings .
Just remember if you are visiting that Rome is full of fantastic places to visit, and eminently walkable too, so bring a comfy (but stylish) pair of shoes.
The Colosseum has always been busy since it was built in AD80, so I recommend buying tickets online to avoid the long queue.
Go for the full-experience ticket, either the ‘attic’ version (amazing views from the top tier) or the ‘underground and arena’ version if you don’t like heights; both tickets also include one entry to the Forum.
If you’re visiting for a few days and want to explore more of the city’s ancient Roman treasures, the Ministry of Culture offers a membership card – definitely worth it if you’re a history buff.
If all that history puts you in the mood for some scenic fine dining, the nearby Palazzo Manfredi hotel has a rooftop bar and Michelin restaurant – time it right to catch the sun setting beautifully behind the Colosseum as you tuck into your Amatriciana.
Take the number 3 tram from the Colosseum (direction Trastevere) to visit the Protestant Cemetery. It’s a hidden gem, home to the poet Keats (who’s buried there), plus plenty of other historic graves and an impressive Roman pyramid.
Outside the cemetery is Via Marmorata – wander along it to the Tiber river, passing many good local bars and pizzerias as you go. You’ll also pass a Roman institution: Volpetti , a fantastic deli that will make your mouth water.
Back at the Colosseum, you’ll find the entrance to the Forum, the heart of ancient Rome. For shorter queues, use the Palatine Hill entrance, just along the road – you can explore the hilltop Imperial palace then get a great view of the Forum as you descend.
There’s a lot to see and take in here, so if your budget runs to a guide, it’s worth it. Allow plenty of time – and if it’s a hot day, think about taking a hat or parasol.
To eat, you’ll need to leave the Forum. To the east is Largo Corrado Ricci, which has plenty of restaurants but is quite a tourist trap (although even a tourist trap in Rome serves good food!).
I recommend heading west to Il Fantino , a traditional ristorante tucked away in a lovely cobbled street (Via di S. Angelo in Pescheria). It’s a Roman favourite serving homemade pasta and artichokes in season (a speciality).
Round the corner is Via del Portico d’Ottavia, a famous street in Rome’s old Jewish quarter lined with characterful cafés and vibrant local restaurants.
Rome is full of history but there’s magic too – all the statues, the fountains, the magnificent sky.
Walking the streets, you feel like you’re in a film, which, of course, you are – so swot up before your visit and (re)watch the classics: Roman Holiday, La Dolce Vita, and Gladiator (don’t forget to pack your toga).
No visit to Rome is complete without a visit to the Pantheon, one of the city’s most intact ancient buildings. Built in the 2nd century on the orders of Emperor Hadrian, it’s still, incredibly, the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.
There might be a queue to get in, but it’s worth it – the view inside will blow you away.
You’ll need a coffee – and luckily one of Rome’s best coffee bars is just round the corner: La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro in Via degli Orfani.
Here, you’ll find wonderful espresso and macchiato coffee, all beans roasted in-house. You can buy a bag of the beans to take home – and delicious chocolate-covered ones too!
The Vatican museum is huge and could easily fill a day. Get there early (8am) to avoid the crowds – again, tickets can be bought in advance. Everyone heads straight for the Sistine Chapel (which really is incredible), but don’t forget all the other delights, such as the beautiful gardens or the pinacoteca (art gallery) with masterpieces by Giotto, Caravaggio and da Vinci.
After all that culture you deserve a treat, so head to Forno Feliziani (Via Candia, 61) for pizza al taglio, a very Roman way to eat pizza – big slabs of it from which the baker snips off individual portions. You’ll probably find different toppings to those you’re used to.
My favourite is pizza di patate, slices of potato with mozzarella and rosemary – delicious. And don’t forget to try a traditional Roman maritozzi bun while you’re there.
Remember to leave time to visit St Peter’s church – it’s not part of the Vatican museum and requires a separate entry. It’s free but busy (lots of nuns!), so you might want to pay for a ‘skip the queue’ timed-entrance ticket which comes with a handy audio guide.
Inside, don’t miss Michelangelo’s Pietá sculpture (created when he was only 24), Bernini’s Baldacchino (a Baroque marvel) and, if you’re feeling energetic, the view from the top of the dome (320 steps plus a lift).
Do what visitors have done for hundreds of years and throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to make sure you return. Piazza di Trevi gets pretty crowded during the day, so why not go in the evening?
The fountain is splendidly lit and there’s a real sense of magic and wonder – just don’t do an Anita Ekberg and jump in - going in the water is strictly off limits!
Nearby is La Rinascente, Rome’s beloved department store (sitting somewhere between John Lewis and Selfridges). Visit the basement to see ruins of the historic Acqua Vergine aqueduct (plus men’s fashions), then head up to the rooftop bar and restaurant for more great views.
There’s a good food hall there too – perfect for gifts to take home.
History is everywhere in Rome. Fancy throwing yourself in the middle of the Ben-Hur chariot race? Easy, just visit the Circo Massimo for the VR experience .
Rome is full of life and the stars of the show are the Romans themselves. To see them at their bella figura best, take a seat in a street-side café, order a drink (a local Frascati or a hot chocolate so thick it’s almost pudding) and watch the world go by.
Good – albeit pricey – places to start are the Rosati or Canova bars either side of Piazza del Popolo, prime people-watching territory.
Caffé del Cinque (Vicolo del Cinque, 5), my local bar in Trastevere, a great part of town full of many other lovely bars, restaurants and picturesque cobbled streets.
Giolitti , serving the city’s best ice cream since 1900 (Via degli Uffici del Vicario, 40)
Hosteria Grappolo D’Oro serves great traditional cucina Romana (Piazza della Cancelleria, 80). For something a little more modern, try nearby La Quercia , where they’ve updated the classics with flair (Piazza della Quercia, 23)
L’Angolo Divino , an authentic enoteca (wine bar) that’s been part of Roman life for over 50 years (Via dei Balestrari, 12)
Fellini (Via Cola Di Rienzo, 281). Try one of their linen ones to help offset the summer heat.
Fendi (Largo Goldoni) or for a far more reasonably priced (but still extremely stylish) option, Italian women in the know head to Furla in Piazza di Spagna.
Valentino, emperor of Roman fashion. The flagship boutique is in Piazza di Spagna. Pricey but forever.
For a day out of the city, try Tivoli, a picturesque little town home to two UNESCO heritage sites: Villa D’Esteand Hadrian’s Villa.
Villa D’Este is a Renaissance masterpiece with fabulous water gardens, while Hadrian’s Villa was Emperor Hadrian’s impressive country retreat. Trains to Tivoli leave from Termini and Tiburtina stations in Rome – the inexpensive journey takes less than an hour.
Both villas are a short taxi ride from Tivoli station. Tivoli itself is worth a wander, especially the historic centre (centro storico) with its cobbled streets, plus panoramic views from Giochi park. Be like the locals and grab an ice cream or coffee from one of the many nearby bars then claim a park bench and gaze across what feels like the whole of Lazio. Bellissimo!
From iconic Venice to atmospheric Sicily, taking in the renaissance charms of Florence, gorgeous Tuscany, majestic Rome and epic Pompeii along the way.
Roman Mornings by Matson Taylor (Scribner UK, £18.99)
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