Sample the delights of Georgia and Azerbaijan, with our expert guide on where to visit and what to eat.
Caroline Eden is the author of Green Mountains: Walking the Caucasus with Recipes and is an author, journalist and book critic specialising in the former Soviet Union. She regularly contributes to the travel, food and arts of national newspapers and magazines.
Georgia and Azerbaijan, two enigmatic countries between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, offer the curious traveller a wealth of cultural experiences from exploring villages of coppersmiths and weavers to summer hikes through meadows and even skiing in the winter.
But the thing most people return from the Caucasus talking about is the food.
Many trips to the region begin in the Georgian capital, Tbilisi, once a post on the Silk Road, and it is there, in tree-lined lanes, that you’ll see locals filing in and out of avant-garde restaurants with Belle Époque-inspired interiors, creaky wooden staircases and rug-strewn floors.
A typical meal, Georgia-style, may include khachapuri, a hot cheese-filled bread, which claims the title of Georgia’s ultimate comfort food, khinkali the broth-filled dumplings that look like little tied-up money bags and perhaps pkhali, chopped and minced greens including spinach, nettles and beetroot tops combined with spices, garlic and crushed walnuts.
And of course there is the local wine which is now finally getting the international recognition it absolutely deserves.
But food aside, don’t miss the art galleries and museums in Tbilisi. The National Museum of Georgia will introduce you to the country’s famous gold, jewellery, textiles and ceramics with some items dating back a thousand years or more. As Marco Polo once wrote of the luxuries found locally: ‘they have a great abundance of silk, and make cloths of silk and gold, the finest ever seen by man.’
A visit here is the perfect appetiser for journeys beyond the capital to monasteries, churches and fortresses and of course the wine region of Khaketi.
Food is hard-wired into the inhabitants of the entire region and you’ll be just as well fed in Azerbaijan.
In the cooler north, you might be served hearty dough-based dishes such as dumpling-like gyurz filled with beef or cheese areshta, which looks a bit like tagliatelle, known locally as a ‘feel-good’ dish – or soul food for mountain-dwellers.
Or maybe you’ll stop by the roadside for a freshly made qutab, thin flatbreads filled with fresh herbs.
In the capital, Baku, the honey-coloured Old Town, dating back to at least the 12th century and with a labyrinth of lanes, contrasts with the shiny Dubai-like Flame Towers, which have become a global architectural landmark. It is fascinating to stroll the boulevard at sunset, as the Caspian Sea glitters.
While further north, in the hills, rolling green mountains are home to shepherds, wonderful mountain honeys and cheeses and tiny villages, all with stories to tell.
Green Mountains: Walking the Caucasus with Recipes, by Caroline Eden (Quadrille, £28).
Declared a world heritage site by UNESCO, this complex, which was the seat of northeastern Azerbaijan’s ruling dynasty during the Middle Ages, was restored twenty years ago and is filled with fascinating artefacts.
It is usually the first stop for most visitors and with good reason.
Geothermal forces mean that Azerbaijan has the most mud volcanoes of any country.
Seeing the thick mud erupt suddenly into bubbling life is fascinating and there is a site close to the Qobustan petroglyphs which means combining the two makes sense.
In Georgia, where viticulture is a cult, wine is everywhere. In and around Telavi, in the eastern Georgian province of Kakheti, there are excellent wineries and cellars dating back hundreds of years.
This is the best place to learn about the local wine-making process.
This northern city in Azerbaijan is the country’s carpet-weaving hub and the famous Qadim Quba carpet workshop, highlighting geometric styles, is a highlight.
Shahdag National Park, with its peaks and trails, is also close by.
There is a a sense of spectacle at Tbilisi’s best-known food market.
Bargain for cheese, pick up some cha-cha (the local spirit), or root through piles of delicious apples and peaches depending on the season.
Azerbaijan & Georgia: A Transcontinental Tour is Saga Travel’s small-group tour to experience the best of these two countries.
The 11-day tour takes in all the highlights in the cities, countryside and the Caucasus mountains.
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